Fine Jewellery & Style · Collection analysis
A widening band, a diamond edge and three colours of gold: Bulgari’s September Tubogas additions show how much can change within a repeated line.
The eye follows the ribs until they fan out. At the front of Bulgari’s asymmetric necklace, a broad gold end meets a narrower one, with diamonds drawing a sharp boundary across the join. The repeated bands remain legible; it is their changing width that gives the composition its direction.
Where the coil changes shape
Bulgari Japan announced five additions on 4 September 2026. The asymmetric necklace, bracelet and earrings sit alongside a three-colour gold necklace and rounded yellow-gold earrings. In its account of the first group, the house points to a Serpenti Tubogas bracelet watch from about 1974.
The bracelet makes the idea particularly clear. Its ends pass one another rather than forming a single meeting point. One flares upwards, the other travels across the wrist. The diamond borders trace those opposing edges, giving the ribbed gold a frame without covering its surface.
The house describes a specially developed internal structure for the progressively changing mesh. It also states that the necklace takes more than 17 hours of handwork and uses a sliding clasp for adjustment. Those are production details supplied by Bulgari, rather than measurements independently tested by JTR.
Colour becomes the pattern
In the three-colour necklace, the silhouette settles into a quieter oval. Yellow, white and rose gold provide the variation. Look along the front and the alternating tones turn the individual bands into a sequence: the pattern is carried by the metal itself.
That makes a useful comparison when presenting the collection. The asymmetric pieces concentrate attention at the ends; the three-colour necklace distributes it around the circumference. A reader can see the difference before considering stones, price or the language of a campaign.
A different kind of emphasis
The rounded earrings bring the ribs over a fuller surface. Broad highlights replace the narrow diamond outlines seen earlier. Placed together, the five designs offer three distinct ways to organise attention: a change of width, a sequence of colours and a curve that catches the light.
Photographs establish those visible differences. Fit, weight and flexibility remain questions for an in-person viewing. This feature considers the published designs and supplied images; JTR has not handled the pieces.
Sources: Bulgari Japan’s announcement, 4 September 2026; Bulgari press release through PR International, 1 September 2026. Photography ©Bvlgari, supplied through Bulgari Japan / PR TIMES for editorial reporting. Lead photograph: asymmetric Tubogas bracelet with ribbed gold bands.
Further reading
Boucheron Quatre XS: four textures, a finer line →
Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée: the rhythm of gold →